Find your faucet type before buying parts
Buying the wrong part is the most common reason a faucet repair stalls. Look at the handle and the base, then match what you see to one of these.
Compression
Two separate handles that you turn several rotations to close. Inside each is a rubber washer on a stem, and the washer wears flat or cracks.
Cartridge
Usually one handle that moves up, down and side to side, or two handles that stop after a quarter turn. A plastic or brass cartridge controls flow and mix.
Ball
A single handle sitting on a rounded cap. Inside a slotted metal or plastic ball, with rubber seats and springs, sweeps across the water inlets.
Ceramic disc
A single lever on a wide, cylindrical body. Two ceramic discs slide against each other, and the drip comes from worn seals or sediment between them.
If you cannot tell, remove the handle and look. The brand name is often stamped on the body, and a photo of the parts brought to a plumbing supply counter gets you the right match.
Tools and supplies to gather first
Set everything out on a towel beside the sink so small parts do not roll into the drain.
- Adjustable wrench and a set of hex keys
- Flathead and Phillips screwdrivers
- Replacement cartridge, ball kit, disc seals or washer and seat set matched to your model
- Plumber's grease for new O-rings
- White vinegar and a small brush for mineral buildup
- A bowl for screws and a rag to plug the drain opening
- A flashlight for looking under the sink
Close the drain stopper or put a rag over the drain before you start. A lost set screw is the usual reason a ten-minute job becomes a trip to the hardware store.
The repair in seven steps
The order is the same for every faucet type. Only the part you replace in step five changes.
- 1
Shut off the water
Turn the two small oval or round valves under the sink clockwise until they stop. Open the faucet to bleed pressure and confirm the flow has stopped.
- 2
Remove the handle
Pry off the decorative cap, then loosen the set screw or Phillips screw underneath. Lift the handle straight off.
- 3
Take off the retaining nut or cap
Use the adjustable wrench and wrap the jaws with a rag to avoid scratching the finish.
- 4
Pull the worn part
Lift out the cartridge, ball or discs. On a compression faucet, unscrew the whole stem.
- 5
Replace the washer, seals or cartridge
Compare the old part to the new one, replace O-rings, and swap the seat on a compression faucet if it is pitted.
- 6
Clean and reassemble
Soak mineral crust off with vinegar, grease the O-rings, and put everything back in reverse order.
- 7
Test slowly
Open the supply valves a quarter at a time, then run the faucet and check underneath for drips.
Drip not stopping after the swap?
A leak from the base or a seat that will not seal usually needs a second set of hands. Call the 24/7 line and a dispatcher books the next open plumber.
Where the drip comes from and what it usually means
Where the water shows up tells you which part has failed. Use this to decide what to buy before you take the faucet apart.
| Where it leaks | Likely cause | Common fix | DIY difficulty |
|---|---|---|---|
| Drips from the spout when off | Worn washer, seat, cartridge or discs | Replace the washer and seat or the cartridge | Easy to moderate |
| Leaks around the handle | Worn O-ring or loose retaining nut | Replace the O-ring and snug the nut | Easy |
| Pools at the base of the spout | Cracked or dry spout O-rings | Remove the spout and replace the O-rings | Moderate |
| Wet cabinet under the sink | Supply line, shutoff valve or a pinhole in the line | Tighten or replace the supply line or stop | Moderate |
| Water pressure weak after repair | Clogged aerator or debris in the cartridge | Clean the aerator and flush the lines | Easy |
Repair the faucet or replace it
If the faucet is old, pitted or discontinued, replacement can be the better call. Here is how to weigh it.
Repair makes sense when
- The body and finish are in good shape
- A matching cartridge or kit is easy to find
- The leak is a single worn part
- The fixture is less than fifteen years old
Replace instead when
- The body is corroded or the finish is peeling
- Parts are no longer made for your model
- You have repaired it more than once already
- You want a pull-down sprayer or a different style
What Wareham water does to faucet parts
Wareham water comes from two districts. The Wareham Fire District draws from gravel-packed wells in the Plymouth-Carver aquifer and adds lime to bring pH up for corrosion control, while the Onset Fire District treats its well water with sodium hydroxide for the same reason. Mineral crust inside a cartridge is still possible in any home, so ask your district for its annual water quality report to see the details for your street.
Source type: Wareham Fire District and Onset Fire District
Safety points before you start
Never skip the shutoff step. A faucet opened with the supply still live can send water across the kitchen in a few seconds, and a failed under-sink valve means you must shut the main instead.
Hot water matters too. Let the faucet run cool before you touch the body, since a recently used hot line can scald. If you have a garbage disposal or dishwasher connected nearby, leave those connections alone unless you need them disconnected.
When a plumber is the better call
Call for help if the shutoff valves under the sink will not close, if the faucet body is corroded to the countertop, or if water is reaching the cabinet floor. A licensed plumber for faucet repair carries the right cartridges and can replace stops that no longer seal, which a homeowner cannot do without closing the whole house supply.
Also call if the leak is behind the wall, if the sink drain is gurgling or slow, or if the same faucet has failed twice. A leak you cannot find after the part swap may be the supply line or the drain, and a leak detection visit can trace it before water damage spreads.
Serving the towns around Wareham
Frequently asked questions
Remove the handle and look inside. A rubber washer on a threaded stem means compression, a plastic or brass tube means cartridge, a rounded metal ball means ball type, and two flat ceramic plates mean ceramic disc.
The hot side is usually the one with the worn washer, seat or cartridge. Heat also expands rubber, so a seal that is marginal can drip on hot and hold on cold.
No. Under 248 CMR 3.05(1)(c), repairs to a faucet, valve or working part of a fixture and clearing a stoppage do not need a permit. Replacing the faucet itself is also simple, but check with Wareham inspectional services if you change supply piping.
No. Even for a small drip, the cartridge or stem sits behind line pressure, and removing it without shutting off the supply will send water out of the opening.
It varies with water quality and use. A cartridge that drips after five to ten years of service is normal wear, and mineral crust can shorten that.
The seat or body is probably pitted, or the new part is the wrong match. Bring the old part to a supply counter, and if it still drips, have a plumber look at the valve seat or replace the faucet.